The Writer's Site 

Being properly equipped...

What started out as a few questions about what I use when writing has turned into an entire section all its own. Below is knowledge I've amassed based on my experiences (both positive and negative).  When I mention a brand or product, it's only because I've had extensive experience with using it. It doesn't mean it's the only such product available.


Q. What do you prefer to use when you write: pen, typewriter or computer and why?

A. PC all the way. It affords me enormous flexibility. I can delete, move, add, find/replace... for me, it's the only way to go. For software, I use Microsoft Office Word 2003, which is an incredibly powerful and flexible program for writers. There are many features that make my job as a writer that much easier. With so many details and facets to manage, the one thing I want is a program that can do it all, without problems. For screenwriting, I use Final Draft. Microsoft Word does have a template/plug-in called Script Maker 2000, which is certainly adequate for the occasional screenwriter. It allows you to format the document in conjunction with screenplay submission requirements. For the more serious screenwriter, however, who's pounding out Hollywood yarns daily, Final Draft will save you time because the formatting is more automatic and intuitive: its sole purpose is to enable you to write screenplays.

Q. Do you back up your work? If so, how?

A. In my experience, the new features of Microsoft Word 2003 make it almost impossible to lose your work. For those of you who are not on Word 2003 (and those who want to take extra precautions, which is always a good idea), I do recommend backing up your work regularly (I have Word set to auto save every minute, a feature available on all versions of Word), because the worst possible feeling is losing your material. I haven't had a problem in many, many years, but I remember that last time quite well: It was 1991 and I had bought a PC clone and the Seagate hard drive crashed on me. I lost a lot of work and it was tragic at the time. Now, I stick with Intel-based HP desktops. For laptops, I've found ThinkPads to be sturdy workhorses, though HP now has some well-built notebooks as well. Look for quality, from its case to its screen, on-board documentation, etc. Type on the keyboard and see how it feels to you. There's no substitute for the best...and with prices haven fallen so low, there's no reason to take chances. I've seen some Dell laptops that remind me of the early (low quality) entry level Hyundai cars, so ordering sight unseen means taking unnecessary risks, in my opinion. See it, feel it, and try typing on it before you buy.

The down time caused by sub-par hardware or software will more than make up for any cost savings you may have reaped on the front end. I learned that lesson the hard way, many years ago. Twice.

If you're still running Windows 98 or ME, it would be well worth your while upgrading to Windows XP. (More on this below.) I've been using it since the day it debuted, and I can vouch for its stability. This operating system never crashes. (What does this stability mean to a writer? Less chance of losing his/her work.) XP is a light-year ahead of its predecessors--and that doesn't even take into account its improved interface, ease-of-use with with digital photos and video, as well as other consumer-related activities for which we didn't previously use our PCs.

Backing up to removable media is a prudent precaution. Computers, no matter what brand, are mechanical and electrical devices, and they do have a life expectancy. They wear out with usage and with time. Also, external factors come into play as well: power surges, static electricity, and dust can harm them. (Not to mention mishandling and other human errors that can shorten their life. And then there's fire and theft...which will also result in lost data.)

But backing up your data doesn't require you to break your bank. You can spend a little to save a lot. (Pun intended.) That said, stay away from the old  1.44 floppies because they're unreliable. PCs and laptops don't even come with floppy drives anymore. Years ago I used Zip disks, but they're just about extinct. My preference now for quick data backup is USB flash memory that merely plugs into your desktop or laptop USB port. It's a small keychain-size device that can hold from 32 MB to 4 GB of data--and like everything else in technology, the prices have fallen substantially; you can buy one for about $20. Once you plug it into your PC, it appears as a removable hard drive, and you merely drag your file from your documents folder onto the flash drive using Windows Explorer. (Again, Windows XP makes it easy--literally, plug in the flash drive and it's there, ready to use.)

Two other notes on backups: some companies sell software that create automatic backups of your data. (Iomega has one such inexpensive product. Microsoft now has a similar product included in its Live OneCare service; more on this later.) You choose which folders you want to back up, and what drive you want it to back up to, and it does so at regular intervals: you can set it to back up your files every time a file is modified, or you can set it to do a backup every 30 minutes (or whatever interval you desire). It then backs up those files that have been modified since your last backup. If you want to use such software,  consider buying an external hard drive, which plugs into the USB port on your PC and functions the same way your internal hard drive does. Your data is then automatically backed up regularly onto this external drive. If your internal hard drive ever fails, all you have to do is plug the external drive into any PC--including your newly repaired PC--and your data is there, ready to be used. External hard drives are now ridiculously cheap; if you shop around, you can find one for under $100. (And if you really want to cover yourself, buy two: keep one plugged into your PC/laptop, and one offsite; once a week, do an updated backup to the secondary, offsite drive.)

A final option is to backup to CD or DVD. If you have a CD or DVD burner, periodically make a copy of all your data files and store the disc offsite at a friend's house or your bank's safe deposit box. Thus, if there's a fire or theft in your home or office, you always have a copy of your data somewhere. It won't be the latest versions of your files, but at least you'll have something. These days, CD or DVD burners are also available for under $100. HP and LiteOn are reliable brands.

Q. I use Windows 98. Should I upgrade to Windows XP?

A. As I mentioned above, I upgraded to Windows XP and have found it to be far superior to any operating system Microsoft has yet created. While it has a host of great consumer-related benefits, I'll only address what is of most concern to writers: reliability. (I can't speak personally to the Macintosh platform, since it's been many years since I've used it, but from what I'm told, it has its share of glitches and crashes.) In the two years that I've been using WinXP, my PC has never crashed. And I tax my system a great deal. Stability equates to preserving my data. That means a lot to me.

There are issues with upgrading an older PC to XP, and in some cases you may need to download updated files from your computer manufacturer's website. If you're unsure of what you'll need, you can either go to your PC manufacturer's website (they'll probably have a section just for XP upgrades), or to microsoft.com, which also has information. There's even a program you can run that will analyze your PC and tell you where potential problems lie. (Microsoft provides this free.) I used it and it provided an impressive report. It even tells you where to get the updated files you'll need. Don't forget your local computer store as a resource. One note: I've found, and have been told, that it's MUCH better to do a "clean" upgrade install: rather than installing WinXP on top of your existing Windows 98 (or ME), first back up your data, then wipe your hard drive and install XP from the WinXP upgrade CD. At some point it'll ask you to insert the CD containing the full version of your prior Windows software. After a few seconds, XP will resume installation; you remove the old Windows CD and put the XP CD back in. Microsoft offers FREE installation support. They will literally walk you through the entire process. I'd recommend backing up your data first, have your old Windows software CD handy, and then call them. They'll hold your hand as you install XP. The entire process takes about 90 minutes.

Q. How important are anti-virus programs?

A. They're vital. Getting a virus is a terrible experience. It can destroy your files, send itself to other people's computers through your email software and cause you hours of frustration (and cost you dollars to repair). As in the medical counterpart, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound (ten pounds?) of cure. Don't hesitate for one second: buy and install an anti-virus program...and keep it updated. Consider that for every thousand PCs, there are 14 virus encounters per month. Put another way, the Love Letter virus infected one million computers in just six hours. Anti-virus programs are very inexpensive nowadays because there are many companies competing--and they offer essentially the same protection.

Q. Are all anti-virus programs created equal?

A. No. As with any software, there are well-designed products and poorly-designed. To some extent, the antivirus portion has become commoditized. Thus, it's the user interface--that is, the software's ease of use that really counts. You can either spend time reading a review of the different programs in a journal like PC Magazine. Or--even easier, you can buy a program I now use called Windows Live OneCare. Check it out by clicking here. It includes all the protection your PC will need: antivirus, internet security/firewall and anti-spam--and it also maintains your computer by doing regular performance tune-ups...and it also performs data backups (which I mentioned previously). It does all this for $49.95 a year, and you can use it on up to three PCs. (Note: some stores regularly run discounts such that the net cost is as little as $9.95.) Once you install it, it does everything automatically in the background and it doesn't noticeably affect the PC's performance. It's a fine product.

For antivirus, I've used McAfee, TrendMicro's PC-cillin, Zone Alarm Pro, and the ubiquitous Norton. Of these, I liked TrendMicro the best. Norton was the absolute worst, and seemed to get worse each year. Norton caused problems with other programs, and uninstalling it didn't provide a true uninstall: it purposely left behind a lot of files, clogging up my hard drive.  Since finding OneCare, protecting my PC has never been easier.

According to one 2004 study, 84% of users were protected by either McAfee or Norton. This means one thing to me: people go with what they've heard about...in other words, brand recognition. Do your own research. Ask your friends what they use, then find what works best for you.) Whichever you choose, it should be simple and easy so you don't even have to think about it. You should set the software once, then let the program do it all automatically in the background--it updates itself, installs the updates, and scans your computer. Bottom line: no matter what you choose, install the software, set it to automatically update and autoscan (if it isn't already set that way). 

Q. How important is the "Windows Update" feature?

A. Put it this way: your car requires periodic maintenance. So does your PC. The anti-virus updates, discussed above, are one example. Because of the wide-ranging functionality Microsoft has built into Windows, and the ongoing threat from cyber-criminals whose purpose in life is to wreak havoc, the free Microsoft security updates are very important. I recommend setting your Windows Update feature to automatic. That way, you don't have to be bothered when a new security update becomes available. Windows downloads it and installs it at your convenience. Some people don't like this feature because they feel they're not controlling what Microsoft puts onto their computers. My thought is that Microsoft would be foolish to do anything nefarious with its products: its survival depends on customer satisfaction. But it's your computer and your decision as to how you want to update Windows. If you want, you can download and install only the updates you want. (Note: if you use Windows Live OneCare, as described above, the updates will be downloaded automatically.)

Here's an important point: if everyone kept their anti-virus software updated and Windows Update set to automatic, virus and worm writers, hackers and other cyber-criminals would be mighty frustrated individuals.

Q. What's spam, and how is it different from phishing?

A. "Spam" is a company or individual's attempt to send you emails hawking a product; they use computers to send out mass mailings to email addresses they mine from the Internet or purchase from data brokers. Some antivirus software contains protection against these mailings, though many companies have incorporated this feature into their "Internet Security" suite of products that include antivirus software and a "firewall," which prevents hackers from breaking into your computer and stealing your data. Advanced e-mail  software like Microsoft Office Outlook 2003 contains a Junk Mail filter that stops much of this unwanted mail. (Microsoft updates this Junk Mail filter periodically, so it pays to go to the free Office Update site and download the latest version. In addition, many Internet Service Providers (AOL, MSN, AT&T, etc.) provide spam protection or junk mail filtering. (Note: if you use Windows Live OneCare, as described above, you'll be protected from most spam.)

"Phishing" is a practice of con artists and other cybercriminals in which they send you an email from what looks like a legitimate entity (like your bank, or eBay) asking for your password and login information. They're very good at this, and it's easy to be fooled. I've seen these emails, and they're sometimes just a bit off (the language isn't quite right, there are misspellings, or something about them doesn't look official). Other times, they look absolutely genuine. Typically, they tell you there's a problem with your account and direct you to click on a link contained in the email, which takes you to a website that looks perfectly legitimate. But it's not. You'd be typing in your login info and password right into the criminal's computer. Bottom line: never give out your password unless you go directly to the company's website yourself. Do not use a link that comes in an email.

Q. What is Spyware?

A. Spyware is another attempt by nefarious types to gain access to your data. You can get spyware from software you download (often called "Freeware") or from email messages sent by people you don't know. You can also get it from visiting certain suspect websites. Without your knowledge, these companies install a tiny program on your computer that logs your keystrokes on the keyboard (which means they can steal your passwords), or tracks your shopping or Internet habits. This information is then compiled and sent back to the company that installed the spyware. There are now advanced criminal rings in other countries that obtain this data and sell it to other criminals. Your identity is then stolen and you're in a bad way. There are numerous spyware solutions, available free, such as Ad-Aware SE Personal, Microsoft Anti-Spyware, and Spybot. I'd download and install all three, as each looks for different things. The latter two can be set to automatically run, while Ad-Aware's free version only runs when you start it. An excellent program is Webroot's SpySweeper, though you have to buy the program (about $25-30), then pay for annual spyware signature updates (about $15-20).

Again, if you use Windows Live OneCare, as described above, you'll be protected from most spyware. It still wouldn't hurt to run Spybot or Ad-Aware, if you're so inclined.

Q. I've heard a lot about ergonomics. Are they important?

A. You bet they're important! Don't ignore them. Use proper techniques for sitting and typing to protect the health of your wrists, neck, and back. A few preventive measures taken now saves a ton of problems later.

Of course, it's best to consult a professional who can examine your workplace to ensure it's set up properly. In the meantime, here are a a few basic points:

1- Your keyboard: I use the Microsoft Natural Keyboard (pictured), the funny looking split-keyboard with the bubble in the middle. It reduces strain on your wrists by placing them into a neutral, more natural position while typing. It takes an hour to get used to, but once you do, you won't ever want to go back to a conventional keyboard. After injuring my wrist, I searched for an ergonomic keyboard that would reduce strain. At that time, the concept was new, and the choices were slim. They ranged in price from $750 to $1,500. Just then, Microsoft launched its Natural Keyboard at a much more reasonable $80). The improved version of the Natural Keyboard ("Elite" or "Pro") can now be found for about $35 to $40. It's money well spent.

2- Your monitor:

    a) Place it directly in front of you so your head does not need to be turned to see it. Keeping your neck turned while typing will cause cumulative trauma. In the short term, the muscles in your neck and upper back will spasm. Neither is fun.

    b) The monitor should be positioned so your eye level is aimed at the center of the screen. You don't want to have to crane your neck up or down to look at the monitor. If you make edits on paper, use a monitor caddy (or stand) to hold up your papers while you enter your changes into the PC. These caddies stick onto the side of the monitor and hold the paper up so you merely move your eyes from the page to the screen, without turning your head or looking down at your desk.

   c) Flat panel "LCD" screens are now the standard. They offer little to no radiation (vs. regular Cathode Ray Tube "CRT" monitors, the larger, bulkier TV set type screens). LCDs are also more energy efficient, take up less room, and are significantly brighter. Don't bother with the old CRTs; buy an LCD.

3- Your chair:

    a) It should have armrests, and the armrests should be at the proper height: if they're not, it'll place excessive stress on your neck and upper back, resulting possibly in headaches and other maladies. With your arms at your sides, the forearms should be resting on the armrests. If you have to lean to one side or the other for a forearm to touch the rest, the armrests need to be raised. If your chair is not adjustable, you can fasten a piece of hard foam to the armrests to provide the same effect.

    b) Choose a chair that has good lumbar (low back) support. This means the lower portion of the seatback should push into your low back region to keep the lumbar spine in a concave form (its naturally designed shape). This is preferable to having the low back straight, or even worse, in a convex curvature.

I'll post more ergonomic tips in a future update.

Also see:
► Info on writing, getting published, and marketing your book. Click here.

►NEW: The business of publishing: what you earn and when you get it. Click here.

►NEW:  Protecting yourself: Copyright - how it works, what it means. Click here.

►NEW: Publishing Contracts: what authors need to know (by attorney/author Daniel Steven). Click here.

►NEW: Identity Theft: How to protect yourself. Click here.

Check back periodically for updates and additions to this page. Click on one of the links below to continue exploring Alan's site.

DISCLAIMER: Any “advice” or information provided on this website is based on the author’s experience and knowledge, and is intended only as background, and for purposes of general interest. It is NOT LEGAL ADVICE, and, in fact, could be incorrect. If you have questions about this information, how it applies to your particular situation, or anything else of a legal nature, CONSULT AN ATTORNEY.